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Roasted pie pumpkin or butternut pureed with condensed milk and warm spices, including a little black pepper for lift.

Six pounds of heirloom tomatoes cooked down with sugar, balsamic and lemon zest. Yields five jars and belongs on every cheeseboard.

Jim's cold soup of heirloom tomatoes, cucumber, onion and garlic blended with olive oil and balsamic. Nothing to cook, everything to chill.

Zucchini and yellow squash sliced into rounds, dredged and fried until golden. Equally at home as an appetizer or a side.

The Sicilian pesto: tomatoes, almonds, basil and garlic. Made for busiate, since both come from Trapani.

Shallots sliced thin on a mandoline and quick-pickled in red wine vinegar with peppercorns. Five minutes for acidity you will use all week.

Boiled beet, shaved radish and carrot served with their picked leaves. A first course that leans on good produce rather than technique.

Chuck roast braised for twenty hours until it falls apart, folded through tomato sauce and served over pappardelle. Long on time, short on effort.

Ground beef cooked down slowly with soffritto and wine over at least two and a half hours. Better still if you make it the day before.